A post by: Zoe
The pattern: Quadra Jeans by Thread Theory
The fabric: Stretch Denim – Rust
Like many sewers, I’m trying to be more considered with the choices surrounding my sewing projects, and to implement some more sustainable practices where possible. In this vein, sewing a pair of jeans for Mr SoZo might be the slowest of ‘slow fashion’ projects I could possibly undertake. Firstly, the actual process of sewing jeans takes a long time, compared to pretty much any other sewing project you could pick. There are sooo many steps and processes, not to mention all that visible topstitching that cannot be rushed. Secondly, like many men, Pat will wear his garments until they are in tatters, unless I remove them from his wardrobe before that point. So if something fits him and he likes the fabric, it’s sure to have a long lifespan.
For this, my second ambassador project for Fabric Godmother, I decided to pick a pattern from the sizeable-and-growing range of PDF patterns that are available on their site (this pattern is also available in paper format). I picked the Quadra jeans pattern by Thread Theory because I knew that the slim fit and classic details would be right up Pat’s street. However, I decided to go a little left field with my choice of fabric. I picked this rust coloured denim that has a small stretch content to add some variety to his wardrobe, hoping that it’ll compliment the dark blue and grey majority of his clothing. I’d say that it is the perfect weight for a jeans sewing project: sturdy but not so thick that you have to wrestle it into submission. There’s a slight sheen to this denim that gives it a classy look and stands it apart from most of the denim fabrics used for jeans making.
This was my first time using a Thread Theory pattern, and I was super impressed by the breadth and detail of the instructions. Although this wasn’t my first ever jeans project, it’s still quite a daunting undertaking, and I felt that my hand was thoroughly held throughout. Generally speaking, I would definitely recommend this pattern, however, there were two points where I deviated slightly from the instructions. Firstly, I left the back pockets off until the jeans were virtually finished so I could position them more accurately. Secondly, I completed the fly front before stitching the side seams (rather than the other way around) as per the construction method of the Closet Case Pattern’s Ginger jeans pattern, so that I could tack the side seams then let them out again if I needed to after a fitting. I did end up letting the waist out a tiny bit, and will probably use the size 30” the next time I use this pattern, stretch or no stretch.
This pattern had some extra little details to build on my previous jeans-making experience. It walks you carefully through the construction of a flat-felled seam, for example, which I tried with success on the back yoke seams. The PDF pattern also includes templates for topstitching designs for the back pockets. I decided to keep this pair really plain, but I’d love to try some fun designs on future pairs.
I’m so pleased with how these turned out. It was so satisfying to produce a pair of ‘real’ mens jeans myself!. After a couple of washes, these still look box fresh, but I’m excited to see how the denim ages with wear and laundering over the years to come.